The Peace Process: Belfast

           Belfast is the capital and largest city of Northern Ireland. It currently holds about half a million people making up 1/3 of Northern Ireland’s population. The site has been occupied since before the Bronze Age and evidence shows Iron Age occupation from forts outside the city. Though the city was not significant historically during the Middle Ages, it became more important during the 17^th century when Sir Arthur Chichester established it as a town to be settled by those coming for the Ulster Plantations from Scotland and England. In the 18^th and 19^th century it became an industrial and commercial center, especially for products like linens. For a while it grew to be the largest city on the island. The Titanic was also constructed in Belfast in 1911.

            In more recent years, Belfast has been riddled with sectarian conflict in the form of the Troubles. The 1970’s saw violence between pro-Irish nationalists and pro-British unionists. Events like Bloody Sunday and other “tit for tat” attacks with car bombs and drive by shootings killed over 3,500 people during this time. The Hunger Strikers, led by Bobby Sands, in 1981 fought for treatment as political prisoners after their title had been stripped from them. Ceasefires began in 1994 on the part of the IRA and the Good Friday Agreement was signed in 1998. This began the peace process that continues on today. Tension still exists today under the surface specifically seen in the Peace Walls that still stand up to 7.6m high in areas like Shankhill. Violence is low but still present and more prevalent than more areas of Ireland today.

            On our bus tour of the city, Noll, a former Ulster Volunteer, and our bus driver Brian, a Nationalist, gave us two different perspectives on the peace process and Troubles. For most of us it was the first time we had heard from a pro-British stance, which we all found interesting. Hearing about how Irishman from the north contributed to the British cause as in the Battle of the Somme WWI helped us to understand how the Northern Irish justify their allegiance to the crown. Deanna liked that we got to talk with Noll who participated in the UVF and spent time in jail for it. Kayleigh said it felt eerie to drive through the streets knowing what violence had taken place there. 

Kilmainham Gaol and Arbor Hill Memorial

Last week we traveled to Kilmainham Gaol and Arbor Hill Memorial. Both have significance in relation to Irish revolution, in particular the Easter Rising.

Kilmainham Gaol (jail) is one of the largest, unoccupied jails in Europe. It was founded in 1796, around the time the United Irish Men was forming. The biggest uprising in Irish history occurred in 1798 and fifty- thousand of the men involved were taken prisoner, many of them were sent to Kilmainham. The most significant prisoners were those held there after the events of Easter rising. The prisoners were given unannounced executions in the windowless courtyard. They were not given a proper trial and their deaths inspired a fire in the Irish Nationalist movement.

Life in the jail was purposefully unpleasant so that no one would deliberately be put there to escape life that might be worse outside the jail. The jail was run with the principles of the Three S’s: Silence, Separation, and Supervision. The prisoners were given a blanket, a bible, and a set of clothes upon arrival. Their cells held a single plank bed and a bucket for a toilet. They were made to be silent and they spent 23 hours a day in their cells. They were given two meager meals a day and at times the jail was so over crowed that prisoners couldn’t even sleep in their cells for lack of room.  Men and women were kept in separate wings and there was different treatment for poor prisoners and wealthy prisoners. Most notable was Charles Parnell, the most powerful man to ever be jailed at Kilmainham. He was given a large room as his quarters that he was allowed to furnish himself. He also had the privileged of coming and going to the jail as he pleased.

Public hanging were the preferred form of execution at the jail until they were outlawed, at which point they were done privately. The last man to be hanged there was Joseph Heffernon, who was executed for a murder that he didn’t commit.  Robert Emitt was also executed at Kilmainham. He is most remembered for the speech he gave at his trial that has influenced many historical figures including Abraham Lincoln. 

Today the jail has been restored and now stands as a memorial to those executed and it also houses a museum to educate the public about the conditions and importance of the site.

Our group was very touched at this site because the reality of the suffering and historical significance was palpable as we toured through the cells and dark corridors. Kayleigh found the whole experience very emotional. Max was fascinated by the museum where he got to read the proclamation and learn about the introduction of mug shots and criminal accountability. Deanna had fun creeping with security camera activity in the museum. Whitney and Elyse enjoyed the Last Word exhibit where the final letters of those executed are displayed. Jennie was touched by the tour guide’s prompting us to remember and pray for those executed at the jail.  Overall, our experience at Kilmainham Gaol was a touching and fascinating time that we will not soon forget.

After our visit to Kilmainham, we went to the Arbor Hill Memorial, which is a military cemetery that is the last resting place of 14 of the most important leaders of Easter Rising, including: Patrick Pearse, James Conolly, Joseph Plunkett, Edward Daley, Tom Clark, and John McBride. These men were originally placed in a mass grave, but it has since been made into a beautiful memorial for them. Present at the memorial is the proclamation written in both Irish and English for all the read and remember.  JFK even took time on his state visit to come to the memorial and place a wreath in remembrance of the revolutionaries.

We didn’t spend very much time at this site, but we all felt the deep significance of it. Whitney thought that the memorial was touching and fitting for the men buried here. Max and Jennie enjoyed getting to see and read the proclamation.

Arbor Hill Memorial is the resting place of many significant Irish figures and it is a touching tribute to their lives and deeds. 

Invaded Ireland: St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christchurch Cathedral

Upon entering St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Christchurch Cathedral, which are both located in Dublin, our group was awestruck and amazed by intricate design and architecture of this ancient structure. The two churches have traces of Romanesque as well as Gothic style. High arches, tall ceilings, and stain glass windows are only a few examples of this style. It is truly amazing just how much history can be expressed through buildings alone. When the two cathedrals were constructed however, the design served as a much greater purpose than one would expect. The builders actually illustrated much of their theology and beliefs through the architecture of these immaculate buildings, thus revealing the extreme importance of these places of worship.

For example, the Cathedrals are built in the shape of a cross and point East. Further more, the pulpit located inside the building is also pointed east, which is the direction of the rising sun. This signifies the resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ. Even the fact that Cathedrals are built on hills is twofold. It first illustrates the sovereignty of Christ. Secondly, it exemplifies the authority and dominant figure the church has on society. The high ceilings serve a similar purpose. When entering in the building, a person’s eyes are immediately drawn upwards. As a result, a person feels small and insignificant in comparison to the magnificence of Christ. It is difficult to resist this overwhelming, yet peaceful feeling of automatic reverence.

There were a few different objects that were particular interesting to different individuals in our group. It was interesting that in St. Patrick’s Cathedral there was no crypt because of the location of the church. The Poddle River is located nearby, so the ground is too soft which prevents graves from being underground. So instead, hundreds of bodies are buried in the walls, ceilings, and the floor boards. This is quite the opposite of Christchurch, which has the largest crypt in all of Ireland and Great Britain. Christchurch also has a four thousand pipe organ. And interestingly enough, a cat and mouse were recently found to be mummified in that very organ which is something that was random and slightly amusing.

Both of the churches definitely had their touristy side, which we found to be slightly irreverent, but understandable. There was a gift shop located just inside the place of worship at St. Patrick’s, which we agreed is a little bit distracting. Christchurch has a coffee shop underneath, as well as costumes from the cast of the popular show “Tudors” because a portion of the series was filmed there.

            Several of us actually got to attend the Easter morning service in Christchurch which was such an incredible experience. Personally, I was touched knowing that though the building I was worshipping in was ancient, the God I was worshipping is constant through the ages.

Christchurch

Inside Christchurch

Inside St. Patrick's

St. Patrick's